20 September 2006

For the Love of Soup

Any cook knows the foundation to soup is the stock or broth. It's the base for everything else that's poured in the pot; the blank canvas, if you will, on which to paint the spectrum of flavors and textures that makes a well-composed soup.

When I eat soup, it's the broth, and only the broth, that I think about. The rest—meat, vegetables, and noodles—is just dressing in the bowl. Get me with the liquid, be it creamy or clear, and you have me all the way. It will be my perfect body warming, soul stirring soup. I will love it forever and think about it always until I find another to take my taste away.

All kinds of soup can vie for my affection—chowder, chunky, Chinese noodle. I have a roaming eye and I don't play favorites. Be it in a cup to my side salad or sandwich, a first course in a big dinner, or as the whole meal, I like them all.



I met my ideal tomato soup at Doughboys where they served it in a vat-size bowl with a grilled cheese sandwich—the combo is called their “after-school special”. The consistency was the perfect balance of velvety creaminess and hearty chunkiness. Caramelized onions added a touch of sweetness and further warmed me to the soup as they simultaneously brightened and mellowed the tomato flavor. It was love at first spoonful, sealed with bites of grilled cheese.


On another day, I ordered a cup of corn chowder at the Bluebird Bakery to supplement my croissant and egg sandwich. Made with fresh ingredients—the corn kernels still had their bite—the chowder was light, but not thin. It was the sandwich with the croissant, egg, cheese, and bacon that was heavy and very substantial.

And most recently, there was the big bowl of beef noodle soup at the Mandarin Deli. While the broth was definitely beefy, I preferred a richer broth that has other notes beside meat essence. Maybe some star anise to strengthen and broaden the flavors would be my suggestion if I were to play the bossy, backseat cook. Though I will throw some praise for the handmade noodles; they were pleasantly thick and chewy.

“I live on good soup, not on fine words.” Moliere


Doughboys Bakery
8136 W Third St
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(323) 651-4202
www.doughboys.net

Bluebird Bakery
572 National Blvd
Culver City, CA 90232
(310) 841-0939
www.bluebird-bakery.com

Mandarin Deli
727 N Broadway Ste 109
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 623-6054

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